Drinks · spirits
Cognac — wine that went into a cask
Brandy is distilled wine. Cognac is brandy made in one specific part of France under strict rules. That single sentence clears up most of the confusion; the rest is three letter codes on the label.
In short
- Strength
- 40% vol
- Raw material
- white wine, mostly Ugni Blanc
- Process
- double distillation, ageing in oak
- Markings
- VS 2+ years, VSOP 4+, XO 10+ years
- Serving
- 18–20 °C, without ice
- Glass
- tulip-shaped; the classic big balloon is not the best choice
As with whisky, the marking shows the age of the youngest component. XO means nothing under ten years is in the blend.
Cognac, armagnac, brandy
Brandy is the general term: distilled wine from anywhere. Cognac comes from the Cognac region, is distilled twice in a copper pot still and aged in French oak. Armagnac comes from the neighbouring region, is usually distilled once and feels more rustic and fruit-driven.
The price gap at the same age comes less from time than from the art of blending: a house style is assembled from dozens of spirits of different ages and origins. That is why two bottles with the same marking taste different.
If you are buying a gift on a modest budget, a VSOP from a known house is safer than a cheap XO from a producer you have never heard of: the number of letters guarantees nothing on its own.
Reading the label
Three abbreviations cover most of the shelf.
Very Special, at least 2 years. Young and sharper. Good in cocktails and long drinks.
Very Superior Old Pale, at least 4 years. The best balance of price and flavour; works neat and as a gift.
Extra Old, at least 10 years. Soft, dried fruit, long finish. For drinking neat.
Not sparkling wine. It means the grapes come from the Grande and Petite Champagne areas inside the Cognac region.
Same family, different character: plum, nut, dried fig. Often better value.
How to serve it
Cognac attracts the same three mistakes more than any other spirit.
Do not warm it over a flame
Heating with a candle is an old piece of theatre that drives up alcohol vapour and kills the finer aromas. The warmth of your hand is enough.
Choose a narrowing glass
A big balloon scatters the aroma; a tulip gathers it.
No ice if the spirit is old
XO over ice is money thrown away. A younger VS carries ice and tonic very well.
A small pour
30–40 ml in the bottom of the glass. Cognac opens up in the air within a couple of minutes; wait for it.
What goes with it
The classics are dark chocolate, nuts and coffee. Ripe pear, dried apricot and blue cheese work surprisingly well, especially with VSOP.
In cocktails cognac is underrated: a Sidecar, a French Connection and plain cognac with tonic and a twist are three reliable recipes. Use VS or VSOP for mixing, not XO.
Common questions
Is cognac stronger than whisky?
No. Both are usually 40% vol. Cognac feels softer because the wine base brings more fruit.
Which cognac makes the best gift?
A VSOP from a well-known house is the safest: old enough to be soft, simple enough to please a beginner.
Can cognac be kept in the freezer?
Better not. Cold shuts the aroma down and the whole point is lost. Keep it at room temperature, bottle upright.
Why is brandy cheaper?
The word brandy requires no region, no still type and no minimum ageing. Good brandy exists, but the label guarantees nothing.